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Your home in The Gambia
Most volunteer accommodations are very basic, especially those that are upcountry. You will be lucky to have a western-style flushing toilet, and running water and electricity for a few hours a day (upcountry these three things barely even exist).
Housing can be situated in a compound where you will live right next door to Gambians or you could be on your own in an apartment.
As this is Africa, insects will likely find there way into your home, notably (large) spiders, cockroaches, ants, termites, flies, and mosquitoes.
Fortunately though, most homes have a resident gecko that you may catch a glimpse of at night and it will eat many of those unwanted critters.
Just pretend you are camping for a while (with having dirty feet all the time, eating canned food, having very little electricity if at all, being without all the modernities such as a TV, and sleeping under a net).
Most volunteers, ex-pats and locals alike hire the services of a housecleaner. For example, you can have a woman come in and clean your house and do your laundry (washing, drying, and ironing) once a week for around D600/month plus food and transport (another D100 or so).
It is well worth having a housecleaner not only for your own convenience but also the social responsibility of employing someone local.
If you are living like most volunteers, the chances are that you will be taking "bucket" showers as you may be in an area that has frequent power (thus water) outages, the pressure of the water will not be enough for an actual shower, or you may not have running water at all and will be visiting the local well each day.
So, on those colder mornings and evenings during the winter months, heat up a kettle of water and add it to your buckets of water for a little bit of 'luxury'.
What to do if...
...you need more clothes: finding clothing such as what you are used to at home is not that easy. There are a few shops that import items from Europe but they tend to be limited and expensive.
The markets sell imported clothing, often from China, donated items or items that are made locally. As a better alternative, have your own clothes made. It's easy to get fabric in just about any market, especially in Serrekunda and Banjul.
Pick 6 meters up for about D150 and go to one of the many tailors available (perhaps ask for a recommended one from a fellow volunteer/ex-pat).
If you show the tailor what you want either by an actual example, showing him a picture in a magazine or drawing it out, he will make what ever you want within less then a week for D150 or so.
...you are tired of eating tapalapa and spam: get creative and start cooking. There are always little shacks on the sides of the streets selling fresh fruit, vegetables, and eggs. Why not make a salad with tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, carrots, green onion, a bit of lime juice and olive oil?
Or make an omelet, a curry, humus with pita bread, fruit salad, etc. with many of the ingredients available in the grocery stores for relatively cheap prices.
...you are tired of being hassled by people asking your for money and calling you "toubab": relax. You are a visitor to The Gambia and thus are looked upon as rich and full of opportunities. Being called a 'toubab' is normal and not meant in any sort of negative way.
Also, learn to say no in a firm but polite way when being asked for money and choose carefully as to who you will give money to or help sponsor if you do decide to.
...you have had enough of the heat, the power (if you have any at all) isn't on so the fan isn't working, there are no cold drinks available, and all you can do is sit there and sweat: Try going outside and sitting in the shade just as the locals do, as it will likely be cooler outside with a nice breeze from the ocean (if you are near the coast that is) than inside your home.
Take it easy and have a nap just as locals do too in the mid-afternoon.
Get a locally made fan, drink plenty of water, and think about how cold it probably is back at home. If you are lucky enough to be near the ocean go for a swim, and some of the hotels even offer a free dip in their pool if you purchase a drink or lunch (Safari Garden Hotel has a small but clean pool for use by volunteers).
...you find yourself drinking and/or smoking a lot more than you used to back at home: this has happened to many volunteers, probably due to a combination of stress, cheap prices of alcohol and cigarettes, and going out a lot more.
Obviously try not to drink and smoke too much. Instead, keep yourself busy and remain physically active.
Join a local gym or running club (yes, both of these exist in the Kombos area), go swimming, play soccer (football) with the neighbours, practice yoga and pilates or even just go for a daily walk along the beach or nature parks with friends.
...you are bored: try taking up a hobby such as:
writing (many volunteers keep an online blog/journal and some have even written novels about their life in The Gambia or elsewhere)
reading (various book stores exist in The Gambia and if you are a VSO volunteer the office has a good little library for you)
photography (The Gambia is very picturesque, just be sure not to take photos of Gambians unless you have asked permission)
bird-watching (ok, this may not sound interesting but give it a try! Get a book on local birds and a list and see how many you can spot during your seemingly endless time here...)
painting (water-colours and sketch-books can be found sometimes in the Kombos area)
talk to the locals (some amazing stories can be heard by the elders and young alike)
go traveling (even the compound next door can provide an interesting experience or set off on a trip to the neighbouring countries Senegal or Mali)
do touristy things (visit the crocodile pools, go on river trips, fish, etc.)
learn a new language (bring audio files and/or books with you from home or learn a local language). The Alliance Francais in Kanifing on Kairaba Avenue offers French lessons at very reasonable prices. There's a nice cheap restaurant on-site as well.
learn how to play the djembe (local drum), lessons can be given by many locals
visit other volunteers!
...you need intellectual stimulation: If you find that you are lacking some decent conversations about politics, philosophy, etc. try the following:
> Go to Timbooktoo, the bookstore in Fajara. Even just browsing the great books available there is enough and although the prices are high, they are no higher than what you would pay at home in most cases.
> Go to an Internet Cafe (if you don't have access to the Internet at home or work) and read the news online (BBC, CBC, NY Times, etc.).
> Get a local paper and get an international paper (The Guardian). Keep clippings from the local paper as an interesting memory...
> Find the Economist and Newsweek at some of the larger grocery stores. The cost is about D125 but well worth it.
> Go to The Kora Bar & Restaurant, The Green Mamba, Come Inn, The Blue Bar, and other bars/restaurants to find other volunteers and ex-pats to have discussions with.
Possible issues for volunteers
Some Gambians may expect African-American volunteers to learn the local languages and adapt to Gambian culture quicker than other volunteers.
This is also the case for African volunteers that are not from The Gambia. African-Americans may also be mistaken for a Gambian and/or African and may experience impatience on the part of Gambians when they do not demonstrate expected behaviour.
Asian, Arab, and Hispanic volunteers may be called such things as "chinese, ching chong, lebanese, indian," etc. by some Gambians, mostly children, just as many tourists and Caucasian volunteers are called "toubab."
This name calling is not necessarily meant in a negative way however, and perhaps lends an opportunity to educate the name caller about the diversity of the world outside of The Gambia.
Gay, lesbian, or bisexual volunteers are to be aware that most people in The Gambia, especially the older generation, are very conservative in their attitudes towards non-heterosexual orientation.
In fact, it has been officially announced in May of 2008 by the President of The Gambia that any non-heterosexual acts are strictly illegal and the person(s) involved will be deported and/or jailed or worse.
Any public display of affection is generally frowned upon at is it, whatever your orientation.
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Simply, it is the volunteer that is realistically getting the most out of his/her experience. The experience of traveling to a new country, exploring the culture, learning new skills, creating new opportunities, and meeting many new friends.
This is at least part of what draws a person to the idea of becoming a volunteer in the first place, isn't it?
Volunteers in The Gambia, as in most other developing countries, offer their services and skills to help in the development sector, which can be in such fields as education, health and nutrition, engineering, management, agriculture, human rights, research, and IT (information technology).
How do I become a volunteer?
What a person needs mostly to become a volunteer is time. Financial stability would be useful. However, unless you have financial commitments such as a mortgage to commit to, having a small bank account back at home is fine.
Age doesn't really matter, as long as you have the right attitude, be both physically and mentally in check, and have the ability to be open-minded, patient, independent, and very flexible. And lastly, having a skill to offer is probably a good idea.
There are countless organizations aimed at sending volunteers overseas to The Gambia, and there is always the option of coming here on your own to find volunteer work in exchange for room and board.
Many organizations do have set requirements such as an age-range, educational level, and specific skills that they are looking for.
There are also organizations that will charge the volunteer a fee to arrange work and these I would be careful to recommend as there are plenty of organizations that do not require a fee, and rather, they pay the volunteer.
Generally all the major expenses are covered and paid for by the sending organization such as the return flight, travel insurance, medical costs, accommodation, visas, and training. On top of that an allowance will be given to cover the cost of food and some other items.
Keep in mind that this allowance will rarely be enough to save anything from. Having a bit of extra money in your bank account will likely be needed throughout your volunteer placement if you plan on going on any trips, purchasing souvenirs, etc.
VSO (Voluntary Services Overseas) is a popular organization that recruits from North America, most of Europe, Kenya, Uganda, the Philippines, and India. Also, check your local government for Internship programs. For Americans, PeaceCorps is an additional option.
Check this site for more volunteer and paid overseas opportunities: www.overseasjobcentre.co.uk
Development in The Gambia
As a volunteer spending a lengthy period of time in The Gambia (anywhere from several weeks to several years or more), you will likely be far more involved with development here than a tourist that spends only a week or so would. It is therefore essential to understand some of the more pertinent issues affecting development in The Gambia:
Some Gambians have admitted that they are "imitators rather than innovators". They see someone running a fairly successful business and they copy it, rather than creating a new idea and finding new market niches. This way of thinking stems from the Gambian educational structure where students are taught in the "repeat after me" style rather than being encouraged individual and original thinking.
This is a serious issue in The Gambia as many Gambians find themselves unemployed and without desirable skills as they have had too many unsuccessful attempts at working in jobs that have far too much competition or not enough marketability for that matter.
At times Gambian culture seems to not support the idea of thinking ahead and planning for the future. Instead, many live day to day and do not save for unfortunate and unforeseen events that may occur. As it is, many Gambians live off of less than US$1 a day so saving any funds is already a challenge on its own.
Gambians in these situations find themselves without money to pay for much needed medical treatment (anti-malarial medication for example), their home may be in need of major repair for the upcoming rainy season or they cannot afford the new school year fees for their children. All of these examples in turn cause further complications.
Work ethic is very different in The Gambia, from a western point of view. Those that have worked in places in Europe or North America for example are well acquainted with the standard 9-5 working hours, and the enormous pressures on punctuality, performance, and commitment one must endure and oblige to if one wishes to stay employed.
In The Gambia punctuality does not really exist, performance is barely gauged, and what are commitments again? Add a lack of motivation and resources, power outages, a hot climate, and the priority list which has work at the very bottom, and you have an idea of what a typical Gambian work environment looks like.
For a volunteer coming to work in The Gambia it can therefore be much more of a challenge than they expected.
Consider the following facts:
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The Gambia ranks 155th out of 177 countries on the United Nations Human Development index (UN, 2006).
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69% of the population is living below the poverty line (UNDP, 2005).
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60% of the population cannot read or write.
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47% of the population does not have access to adequate sanitation facilities (UNICEF, 2004).
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100+ NGO's and numerous registered charities exist in The Gambia.
Why does it seem as though the humble attempts of the NGO's are not necessarily contributing to a positive change in The Gambia? Is it because much of their funding is going towards the purchases of brand new SUVs or the latest computer technology?
To give NGO's the benefit of the doubt, relative comfort is essential to attracting qualified workers, especially when these worker's salaries are far less than what they could expect back at home in Europe or North America.
Still, from a Gambian point of view it must be difficult to understand when he or she does not see improvements at the grass roots level, but instead sees an increase in foreigners driving sparkling new vehicles with slightly familiar decals slapped on all sides.
Funding, therefore, should be carefully allocated and volunteers should think twice about asking for the latest software at their host workplace and perhaps research as to where the funding could be better spent.
General tips for volunteers
Full integration into the new environment of the country that a volunteer spends time in is rarely possible, so do not be ashamed of being who you are; an individual from another culture.
However, not attempting to integrate at all is shameful. After all, choosing to be a volunteer in The Gambia is asking for an adventure!
Learn the local languages (in its entirety is obviously not possible, unless you plan to stay for years). Even just a few phrases will really go a long way here in The Gambia and locals will appreciate the effort taken.
Eat the local food. Gambian dishes are very delicious and offer enough variety to suit most dietary needs. As a volunteer you can likely not afford to eat at the nice restaurants all the time anyway so get used to eating such things as benachin and tapalapa sandwiches.
Travel upcountry (unless you are already stationed there. Even then, try to travel the country). Seeing the rural parts of The Gambia is a must, as this is the real Africa. Locals upcountry are very welcoming, there is a lot of wildlife and unspoiled wilderness, and seeing the thousands of stars in the quiet of night is something not to be missed. It's easy to stay in the comforts of the Kombos area, however, a few trips upcountry offer true serenity, away from all the hustle and bustle.
Give yourself a break. Most, if not all volunteers go through an emotional cycle that includes many highs and many lows. Usually, the first month or so can be very exciting, where everything is new. Once the excitement wears off however, depression can sink in quickly. It can be set off by having had a bad experience, having been ill, or even just the realization that you are far away from your family and friends back home.
You can and will get over this depressive state. Give yourself some time before making any haste decisions on going back home. Go out with friends, treat yourself to good food, even spend a night or two in a touristy hotel if you have to (just don't get too used to the luxury!
You can even email the author at info(at)destinationgambia(dot)com with your troubles. After a few weeks you will feel much better and begin a journey of acceptance to your situation. An acceptance that you chose, as a volunteer, to commit to. At the end of the journey it will all have been worth it and you will have had a life-changing experience that you will never forget.
Sweating. It is inevitable while in The Gambia and therefore using an antiperspirant is basically useless. Instead, try using a deodorant. The best option is to use an all natural mineral salts rock deodorant (sometimes called the crystal) which is very effective in eliminating odour while allowing the body to naturally perspire (as it will anyway). In addition, this deodorant will last at least a year or more.
Bring a little from home. In addition to the items on the -what to pack list, bringing a few items from home can be an instant mood enhancer:
Photo album. Consider bringing a small photo album with photos of family, friends, and your country. This can also be shown to Gambians who would love to see them, especially to those you may be living with or working with.
World map. A folded world map doesn't take up much space in your luggage and not only does it make a good wall accessory, it can be very entertaining to Gambians if you show them where The Gambia is in relation to your home.
Favourite snacks. Ok, so you can't bring a juicy burger and fries with you (though these are available in The Gambia anyway), you could bring a few dry items with you that can remind you of home. Maple syrup candies from Canada for example were a great hit.
Presents sent from home. Make sure your family and friends send you packages in the mail, at least once anyway. It's great to receive mail while you are here, if you end up receiving it that is...the postal system in The Gambia is not reliable so make sure nothing of value is sent through to you as you may never see it.
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